Once upon a time, a fast horse was all you wanted to escape a saloon shootout without being recognized. 200 years ago, a sheriff had to hunt any witnesses down. In today’s saloon, no dispute remains veiled from followers of social media. What fortune for the bar owner. After all, PR embraces the loud and embarrassing.
When the not-so-tight-lipped housewives Lisa Rinna and Kathy Hilton, mother of Paris Hilton, got into a fight over which tequila was the best, they brought worldwide attention upon an exclusive boutique for cowboy hats in Aspen, Colorado: Kemo Sabe has mastered the media staging of western wear like a rancher a lasso. Anyone who has ever graced the silver screen gathers at the shop's VIP bar. Influencers with millions of followers like Nikki Garcia don’t flinch at forking out several thousand dollars for a cowboy hat. But how did we get here?
The cowboy hat’s journey from proletariat cattleman to the bourgeoisie has been a long and dusty one. In the 19th century, when work was still physical and beans were spooned from tin plates, it protected the wearer from sun, dust and rain. A cowboy would be in the saddle for up to 12 hours. He slept under open skies. He rarely had the chance to bathe, to dress in clean clothes or visit establishments typical of the time.
John B. Stetson was the first practical hat maker to exploit a fashion opportunity by making men stand out. His wide-brimmed, "Boss of the Plains" felt-hat, a model designed in 1865, is still considered the prototype of the modern cowboy hat. For the wider public, the "Boss" took a big step towards becoming an iconic accessory when film legend Gary Cooped wore one in the 1952 western "High Noon".
In Cave Creek, a little town of 5,000 in Arizona, 30 minutes by car from Phoenix and far enough away from Aspen, there’s a passionate hat maker devoted to traditional methods. Watson's Hat Shop uses original 19th century tools to create bespoke hats for customers around the world. Name dropping is not a thing here. Nor are ostentatious gatherings. In a video, with a voice to impress a casting agent, owner Eric Watson gives an insight into his workshop. Alex Cabrera, a prospective master hat maker, explains on the phone that production takes days, not hours; it requires skill and patience.
After selecting a material, such as felt or leather, the hat is shaped by what is called blocking. In this challenging technical process, the material is stretched over a hat block and steamed. The shape of the brim is also formed by steam and pressure. Excess material is cut off and the brim trimmed to the right width. The last step is called finishing. Cabrera is from New York. He came to Watson's hat shop as a customer and stayed on as an apprentice. “The Apprentice”, as he is modestly described on the website, is such a courteous gentleman that, in conversation with him, you cannot but reflect on your own manners.
Watson's Hat Shop flies low under PR and influencer radar. Their discretion is impressive and any media references they stream are not from reality TV. All the main actors in the western "Godless" wear genuine Watsons. "Cole" from the Sci-Fi series "12 Monkeys" also wears a Watson. In the world of real cowboys, Watson is the official hatter of the Arizona Reining Horse Association and the Arizona Cutting Horse Association. Meaning you get to see the hats in action in environments they were originally intended for – at auctions, rodeos and western tournaments.
Whether as a cowboy costume or for honest work, the decisive factor for the perfect look is picking a model that suits the shape of your head and face. Criteria for an optimal fit include the height of the crown, the width of the brim and its form. Cowboy hats are unisex, but there are special models for women – cowgirl hats – where the brim at the front is narrower than at the back. This makes the face appear slimmer. Bright colours and decorative elements such as eye-catching hatbands, feathers, embroidery, silver and rhinestone appliqués give these hats a feminine touch.
A custom-made hat costs from 700 dollars. There is no upper limit. One example: Lady Gaga's cowboy – sorry, cowgirl – hat. A black model which she wore to one of her concerts in 2016, encrusted with Swarovski crystals, is said to have cost over a million dollars. No sweat.
